I wanted to make this mostly a 'news and politics' themed blog, but I thought it might be interesting for any discerning travellers out there if I included a piece on my recent trip to Pakistan. First, let me give you some context to my trip. I'm a white female in my early twenties and I travelled alone to Islamabad in the hottest part of the year in order to spend a few months with my in-laws. It was a little daunting to make the journey solo, but I had prior experience of this when I went alone to the Middle East so I was not too concerned with going through immigration control alone.
Before my trip, I was only slightly paranoid about the security concern of travelling to a place like Pakistan. My family were probably considerably more alarmed! My in-laws assured me that Islamabad had not experienced a suicide attack since 2008 and that once I am dressed in the local clothes, I blend in quite easily. I was doubtful of the latter, but nonetheless I bought a shalwar kameez (the tunic and loose pants style favoured in Pakistan) before my trip at one of the local markets near my house. The stall owner assured me this was the 'latest fashion', however I was to later discover that black shalwar kameez does not go down well in the extreme heat of a Pakistani Summer.
Security
The first thing I noticed about Islamabad was the heat and the smell. Everywhere smelled like vegetation and plants, which was surprising and lovely. The 45 degrees heat was not surprising and not lovely. It also became quickly obvious that Islamabad is a city on high alert when I had to pass through several armed checkpoints just to leave the airport. There were checkpoints all over the city, especially in the wealthy districts. Outside many of the bigger restaurants and shops I saw rather haggard looking security guards holding automated weapons. Even the street that I stayed in had it's own local security guard who would patrol at night and blow a whistle periodically, supposedly to reassure you he was still there and not kidnapped by the Taliban? It's funny how this can all seem quite normal very quickly.
Rawalpindi: The Yin to Islamabad's Yang
Islamabad is a planned city which makes it stand apart from most other Pakistani cities which are haphazard mazes consisting of unregulated buildings, markets, old and new structures, slums and compounds. Right beside Islamabad, is the twin city of Rawalpindi which is more like the latter kind of Pakistani city. I stayed in Islamabad but I spent a lot of time in the markets of Rawalpindi which was an adventure in itself. The streets are packed with cars and motorbikes trying to navigate through the chaos which often brings everything to a standstill. The markets are filled with people and motorbikes who often come flying down the narrow streets with little regard for people walking. There are beggars and transexuals hustling for money from the locals and many people who seem to be suffering from illnesses like polio and microcephalic birth defects. The beggars walk in the middle of the roads, often children, and attempt to persuade drivers to give them a few rupees before the lights change. Locals are obliging and seem to often give them money.
Rawalpindi is without a doubt, a city of poverty, in contrast to the city of nearby Islamabad. However, I never experienced any problems with crime or harassment while visiting the markets with my family. I dressed appropriately and to my surprise most people assumed I was either Pakistani or Afghani. In fact, the people I saw in Pakistan seemed far more diverse in appearance than the ones I see back home in the UK. I saw whole families with natural auburn hair, which although I had heard about before, I was still surprised to see red heads so far from home.
Here's a few shots I got of Pindi:
'Delhi Belly' Or Rather 'Islamabad Belly'
I was warned by everyone that I would probably get sick. However, I don't think I was psychologically prepared for the fact that I would be sick for the majority of my trip. My first tip for any potential travellers is NEVER drink water that did not come from a sealed bottle. My second tip is shower with your mouth closed. I made the mistake of following neither of these rules in the beginning, much to my regret. I mistakenly drank water that had come from a local filtration plant (supposedly clean) which gave me an upset stomach for most of my trip. It was explained to me that although the water is technically purified, it probably contained minerals that my body was not used to. I also showered and brushed my teeth unaware that I was probably consuming a delightful array of microbes and unusual bacteria. Right after I left Pakistan, I read a story about a water-borne 'brain eating amoebia' that went up your nose and killed you within 24 hours with no prospect of a cure. This made me realise the IMPORTANCE of avoiding any water source (and not forgetting the water used in cooking and ice served in drinks) that is not from a shop, in a bottle and sealed. Anti-biotics are available without prescription in most chemists so I could quite easily get my hands on them, although often the side effects of the medicine were as bad as the sickness itself. Flagyl gets a special mention there!
Food
Everyone asked me before I left, how will you handle the food? And I told them joyfully, I LOVE Asian food! Well let me tell you, 'Asian' food as you know it is not the same as the food you get in Pakistan. I'm not saying the food is bad, it can be amazing and delicious, but it can also be very spicy, very oily and difficult to tolerate if you are already suffering from a stomach bug. After a couple of weeks, I started to crave the bland carbohydrate rich food of home. I wanted fresh bread, pizza, chips and pasta so badly. I forced my very hospitable family to take me to every Western food chain in Islamabad - KFC, Pizza Hut, Nando's... etc. But every time was disappointing. When I went to KFC they had run out of chips. I almost cried. When I went the Pizza Hut, the dough was made out of some sugary ingredients that only proved to be make me more sick than before. Nando's was actually okay. Not quite the same as back home but enough to stop me from going crazy. I used to be proud and slightly smug about my love of food from all around the world, but my experience in Pakistan has silenced me and I no longer brag about how much I love spicy food. After coming back home, it took me several months before I could even look at a curry again.
Electricity or Lack-There-Of
Usually the first thing I think of when someone asks me about my trip to Pakistan, is the electricity problem. Most people are actually surprised when I tell them that electricity is even a problem. After all, I was staying in the capital city, not a remote village. During the night time, the electricity switches off every second hour. This might not seem like a big deal if you are sleeping, but if you are depending on an air conditioner then it is actually quite a big deal. Most air conditioners do not switch back on automatically once the electricity is switched off. This means often waking up in the middle of the night drenched in your own sweat, desperately trying to find the remote control for the AC in the dark. During the day, the electricity also switches off periodically often for an hour at a time. This means that most shops have to rely on a petrol generator if they can afford it. I cannot imagine the havoc and expenses this must cause for businesses like restaurants which cannot interrupt their service during the day. I also wonder about families that are trying to store food in their home and do not have a generator. And what about universities and colleges that rely on an internet service for hundreds of pupils throughout the day? I realised how much I took a reliable electricity supply for granted back home. It cut off my access to the two things I relied on most during my trip - the AC and the internet.
Cockroaches
I once had a cockroach problem back home in England. These little things would live inside the stereo system in my kitchen and periodically crawl out to eat crumbs off my counter. I thought this was the most disgusting thing possible. I was wrong. The cockroaches in Pakistan are about ten times bigger and they seem to be absolutely fearless. During my stay in Islamabad I went on a trip for a couple of weeks outside of the city. On returning back to the house, I discovered that the roaches had crawled up the unused drains in my absence and made my bathroom their home. There was about 12 of the creatures having a party in my shower, my sink and my floor. When I went to grab my towel so that I could take a shower in another bathroom, I discovered two of them living happily on my towel. I took a bug spray and I went rambo on the creatures, spraying them each until the can ran out. Some of them seemed to be impervious to the spray and worse yet, some of them would even come running towards me in defiance. These things were huge. On my last day in the country one of my family members said they saw a cockroach sitting on top of the alarm clock beside my bed. I spent several hours looking for the thing with no luck. I spent the night lying awake with my mouth closed, too afraid to sleep in case the cockroach would appear and try to crawl into my mouth. I think I may have contracted cockroach-madness at this point.
Just so you get an idea, here's a little one I met outside the house:
Over all, my stay in Pakistan was fascinating and enlightening. The people were very friendly and welcoming and I never feared for my safety, except maybe from cockroaches crawling into my mouth. While it might not be very culturally acceptable for a woman to walk alone in the city, I spent a lot of time with sisters in law in the markets and we never encountered any problems or restrictions. If you are going to travel to Pakistan it is important to make yourself aware of the local culture and respectfully adhere to the dress code. This does not mean that you MUST cover your head as a female, but it might be preferable to do so. In some places women do wear jeans and tight clothing, but this is usually confined to the more up-market wealthy districts. Although sickness is a problem, if you are prepared for the likelihood that you will get ill at some point and you are otherwise fit and healthy, then you will be okay. I would not recommend Pakistan as a holiday destination but for an experienced and open-minded traveller it would be one hell of an interesting trip. You definitely need to be prepared to cope with the heat and lack of electricity but if you are ready for these issues then it can be a very eye-opening experience.
Before my trip, I was only slightly paranoid about the security concern of travelling to a place like Pakistan. My family were probably considerably more alarmed! My in-laws assured me that Islamabad had not experienced a suicide attack since 2008 and that once I am dressed in the local clothes, I blend in quite easily. I was doubtful of the latter, but nonetheless I bought a shalwar kameez (the tunic and loose pants style favoured in Pakistan) before my trip at one of the local markets near my house. The stall owner assured me this was the 'latest fashion', however I was to later discover that black shalwar kameez does not go down well in the extreme heat of a Pakistani Summer.
Security
The first thing I noticed about Islamabad was the heat and the smell. Everywhere smelled like vegetation and plants, which was surprising and lovely. The 45 degrees heat was not surprising and not lovely. It also became quickly obvious that Islamabad is a city on high alert when I had to pass through several armed checkpoints just to leave the airport. There were checkpoints all over the city, especially in the wealthy districts. Outside many of the bigger restaurants and shops I saw rather haggard looking security guards holding automated weapons. Even the street that I stayed in had it's own local security guard who would patrol at night and blow a whistle periodically, supposedly to reassure you he was still there and not kidnapped by the Taliban? It's funny how this can all seem quite normal very quickly.
Rawalpindi: The Yin to Islamabad's Yang
Islamabad is a planned city which makes it stand apart from most other Pakistani cities which are haphazard mazes consisting of unregulated buildings, markets, old and new structures, slums and compounds. Right beside Islamabad, is the twin city of Rawalpindi which is more like the latter kind of Pakistani city. I stayed in Islamabad but I spent a lot of time in the markets of Rawalpindi which was an adventure in itself. The streets are packed with cars and motorbikes trying to navigate through the chaos which often brings everything to a standstill. The markets are filled with people and motorbikes who often come flying down the narrow streets with little regard for people walking. There are beggars and transexuals hustling for money from the locals and many people who seem to be suffering from illnesses like polio and microcephalic birth defects. The beggars walk in the middle of the roads, often children, and attempt to persuade drivers to give them a few rupees before the lights change. Locals are obliging and seem to often give them money.
Rawalpindi is without a doubt, a city of poverty, in contrast to the city of nearby Islamabad. However, I never experienced any problems with crime or harassment while visiting the markets with my family. I dressed appropriately and to my surprise most people assumed I was either Pakistani or Afghani. In fact, the people I saw in Pakistan seemed far more diverse in appearance than the ones I see back home in the UK. I saw whole families with natural auburn hair, which although I had heard about before, I was still surprised to see red heads so far from home.
Here's a few shots I got of Pindi:
'Delhi Belly' Or Rather 'Islamabad Belly'
I was warned by everyone that I would probably get sick. However, I don't think I was psychologically prepared for the fact that I would be sick for the majority of my trip. My first tip for any potential travellers is NEVER drink water that did not come from a sealed bottle. My second tip is shower with your mouth closed. I made the mistake of following neither of these rules in the beginning, much to my regret. I mistakenly drank water that had come from a local filtration plant (supposedly clean) which gave me an upset stomach for most of my trip. It was explained to me that although the water is technically purified, it probably contained minerals that my body was not used to. I also showered and brushed my teeth unaware that I was probably consuming a delightful array of microbes and unusual bacteria. Right after I left Pakistan, I read a story about a water-borne 'brain eating amoebia' that went up your nose and killed you within 24 hours with no prospect of a cure. This made me realise the IMPORTANCE of avoiding any water source (and not forgetting the water used in cooking and ice served in drinks) that is not from a shop, in a bottle and sealed. Anti-biotics are available without prescription in most chemists so I could quite easily get my hands on them, although often the side effects of the medicine were as bad as the sickness itself. Flagyl gets a special mention there!
Food
Everyone asked me before I left, how will you handle the food? And I told them joyfully, I LOVE Asian food! Well let me tell you, 'Asian' food as you know it is not the same as the food you get in Pakistan. I'm not saying the food is bad, it can be amazing and delicious, but it can also be very spicy, very oily and difficult to tolerate if you are already suffering from a stomach bug. After a couple of weeks, I started to crave the bland carbohydrate rich food of home. I wanted fresh bread, pizza, chips and pasta so badly. I forced my very hospitable family to take me to every Western food chain in Islamabad - KFC, Pizza Hut, Nando's... etc. But every time was disappointing. When I went to KFC they had run out of chips. I almost cried. When I went the Pizza Hut, the dough was made out of some sugary ingredients that only proved to be make me more sick than before. Nando's was actually okay. Not quite the same as back home but enough to stop me from going crazy. I used to be proud and slightly smug about my love of food from all around the world, but my experience in Pakistan has silenced me and I no longer brag about how much I love spicy food. After coming back home, it took me several months before I could even look at a curry again.
Electricity or Lack-There-Of
Usually the first thing I think of when someone asks me about my trip to Pakistan, is the electricity problem. Most people are actually surprised when I tell them that electricity is even a problem. After all, I was staying in the capital city, not a remote village. During the night time, the electricity switches off every second hour. This might not seem like a big deal if you are sleeping, but if you are depending on an air conditioner then it is actually quite a big deal. Most air conditioners do not switch back on automatically once the electricity is switched off. This means often waking up in the middle of the night drenched in your own sweat, desperately trying to find the remote control for the AC in the dark. During the day, the electricity also switches off periodically often for an hour at a time. This means that most shops have to rely on a petrol generator if they can afford it. I cannot imagine the havoc and expenses this must cause for businesses like restaurants which cannot interrupt their service during the day. I also wonder about families that are trying to store food in their home and do not have a generator. And what about universities and colleges that rely on an internet service for hundreds of pupils throughout the day? I realised how much I took a reliable electricity supply for granted back home. It cut off my access to the two things I relied on most during my trip - the AC and the internet.
Cockroaches
I once had a cockroach problem back home in England. These little things would live inside the stereo system in my kitchen and periodically crawl out to eat crumbs off my counter. I thought this was the most disgusting thing possible. I was wrong. The cockroaches in Pakistan are about ten times bigger and they seem to be absolutely fearless. During my stay in Islamabad I went on a trip for a couple of weeks outside of the city. On returning back to the house, I discovered that the roaches had crawled up the unused drains in my absence and made my bathroom their home. There was about 12 of the creatures having a party in my shower, my sink and my floor. When I went to grab my towel so that I could take a shower in another bathroom, I discovered two of them living happily on my towel. I took a bug spray and I went rambo on the creatures, spraying them each until the can ran out. Some of them seemed to be impervious to the spray and worse yet, some of them would even come running towards me in defiance. These things were huge. On my last day in the country one of my family members said they saw a cockroach sitting on top of the alarm clock beside my bed. I spent several hours looking for the thing with no luck. I spent the night lying awake with my mouth closed, too afraid to sleep in case the cockroach would appear and try to crawl into my mouth. I think I may have contracted cockroach-madness at this point.
Just so you get an idea, here's a little one I met outside the house:
Over all, my stay in Pakistan was fascinating and enlightening. The people were very friendly and welcoming and I never feared for my safety, except maybe from cockroaches crawling into my mouth. While it might not be very culturally acceptable for a woman to walk alone in the city, I spent a lot of time with sisters in law in the markets and we never encountered any problems or restrictions. If you are going to travel to Pakistan it is important to make yourself aware of the local culture and respectfully adhere to the dress code. This does not mean that you MUST cover your head as a female, but it might be preferable to do so. In some places women do wear jeans and tight clothing, but this is usually confined to the more up-market wealthy districts. Although sickness is a problem, if you are prepared for the likelihood that you will get ill at some point and you are otherwise fit and healthy, then you will be okay. I would not recommend Pakistan as a holiday destination but for an experienced and open-minded traveller it would be one hell of an interesting trip. You definitely need to be prepared to cope with the heat and lack of electricity but if you are ready for these issues then it can be a very eye-opening experience.
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